I am gonna spare you the reason he needed to use an easy out on it but. When my mechanic was trying to remove one of the jets, he actually broke the easy-out he was using to remove it. ![]() I recently purchased a nice used 1989 Kat. Your rubber parts are 17 years old and may be tired.Īlso check the valve clearances, people have a habit of never doing that.Does anyone know of any differences between the 1989 to 1991 carbs. Spray down the entire area between carbs and engine with WD40 or water while it idles and see if the idle changes. Then make sure nothing is actually wrong, like vacuum leaks. Remove any shims on the needles, make sure the diaphragms are ok, stock main jet size, stock float height, jets clean, stock idle screw setting. Getting it smooth requires a gauge of some sort for fine tuning.įor tuning a stock bike, just return it to stock settings. This is a bit imprecise because it's hard to see minute differences, but it gives you a descent working set. Even if it's just a bench sync where you take the carbs off and visually make sure the throttles are opening at the same time and the same rate. Ride the bike and keep it in the crappy zone to try to force as much of the gas/seafoam through the dirty jets and it'll clear out eventually.ĭefinitely sync it. From your description, probably the needle jet (aka emulsion tube). Like YZFHEFF says, it may just be slightly plugged up carbs. So what exactly are you changing when you tune it? ![]() Ingesting some water won't hurt the engine because the port is small, but it still sucks. Ideally you wouldn't have to have as tall tubes this way since you're only looking at difference not absolute pressure, but give it 2-3 meters anyway because it sounds like you messed with it quite a bit.īe at the ready with the kill switch. You can figure out which way you have to turn if you inspect the way the screw is, or you can just try and see if it's better or worse. If one pulls higher, then the vacuum is stronger in that one and the throttle plate needs to be opened to reduce the vacuum. A little bit of water on the bottom of the U will tell you if they're the same. You can sync two carbs together this way. The second way is to use a U shaped tube. You can see all 4 cylinders at once this way. Expect about 280 mmHg for a tuned bike, that's around 3 meters of water (complete vacuum is 760 mm mercury or about 10 meters of water). Problem is that this water column will be very high. You don't care about the absolute value, just that all cylinders are the same. The height of the water column will give you a measurement of the vacuum. If water overflows the top it will be trapped in the bottle. When you start the engine it will make a vacuum that will pull the water up. One tube to the carb, the other is the measuring one. A sealed glass (rigid) bottle with two tubes. My dad suggested this, but also suggested I make a safety system by running it through a bottle to keep water getting into the engine. Have 4 tubes, one end in an open jug of water, then run up a tall wall, then over to the carb. The first is to do the same thing the mercury gauges do but with water. Since you're probably a cheapskate since you own that bike, do what I do and make your own with some clear tube and water. You can buy these gauges, there's some product called syncmaster or something like that. I like to sync at 4 or 5k because that's where I spend most of my time so I want it to be smoothest there. They recommend you do this at idle and adjust with the main idle adjuster to keep it at that rpm. You sync #1 to #2, then #3 to #2 and finally #4 to #3. The procedure is to hook up the pressure gauges and make them all show the same as cyl #2. ![]() The old GS engines had them be part of the intake boot. Not sure about the Kat, the sync ports are usually nipples in the top front of the carb. You adjust them with a set of manometer gauges that you hook up to the sync ports. The sync is to make sure the throttle plates go up and down in unison. ![]() Yes, those screws between the carbs are sync screws.
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